With spring well and truly underway – albeit with a few showers here and there – I’m in the mood for a change of jewellery look. If the darker months saw me turn to statement fashion pieces in a bid to cheer things up, I’m now erring towards simpler styles which focus on craftsmanship and lovely details. The one non-negotiable? They have to be gold!
Several collections are currently jostling for poll position on my mental wishlist, and some of my favourites come from British jewellery brand Robinson Pelham whose mix-and-matchable dainty delights are a must for those of you who, like me, love to personalise your look.
On a recent visit to Robinson Pelham’s Chelsea-based boutique I caught up with director Vanessa Chilton and asked her to share her thoughts on the season’s hottest trends, gold’s eternal allure and finding inspiration in Star Trek.
Adorn Jewellery Blog: What prompted you to focus on simple, every day gold jewellery?
Vanessa Chilton: We tend to always have gold pieces in our classic collections as our customers find these pieces easy to wear on a daily basis. Large chunky gold rings (like the Toulouse Ring) which are textured work well as a statement piece. High polished plain gold drop earrings (such as the Pyrus Earrings) can be worn both day and evening.
The design ideas behind the Troy Ounce Collection is based on allowing the customer to buy something that actually weighs ¼ ounce of gold or ½ of an ounce of gold or ¾ of an ounce of gold. Customers like being able to hold and feel the weight of the ounce. We took the design one step further in the latest collection of these and built a hidden door in the pendant which when you find it and open it, it reveals a Diamond Briolette. It is a modern take on the locket and can be personalised to suit the individual. Engraving works well on these as an added personal touch as the letters are very subtle in the highly polished Amorphic shape.
The plain gold Orb Collection is also popular as we have created the rings in three gold colours. The pendant is bold and is worn on our ever popular long gold 35 inch chain.
AJB: In what ways are these pieces reflective of the Robinson Pelham design ethos?
VC: We focus on shapes that adorn, interesting textures and bold pieces that are easy to wear with anything. We like to be versatile with chain lengths and earring lengths simply because every customer is unique.
AJB: Why do you think savvy jewellery-loving women are investing in this more pared down aesthetic?
VC: Because they don’t have to focus on making decisions about stone colour in their jewellery, the only decision they need to make is about the gold colour.
AJB: How much influence do you think things such as the international catwalks and street style imagery – which tend to be more costume jewellery-based – have on fine jewellery aesthetics?
VC: Fashion as a whole has an influence on high jewellery. Costume jewellery less so as you can work on a much bigger scale as the material is cheaper to work with. We are constantly thinking about the length of earrings, necklines, chains, and how a ring sits on a finger; how the jewellery is articulated, moves and swings; and how the wearer will wear it and what with – is it evening, day, working day, beach etc?
AJB: Where do you find inspiration?
VC: Much of the current contemporary collections were inspired by science fiction/ Star Trek. In particular our Asteroid Ring, Celeste Earrings and Troy Ounce Collections.
AJB: Which other fine jewellery trends are big news for you now?
VC: Rose gold, grey diamonds, and rainbow colour sequences in grain and pave settings.
Interview: Maia Adams