Elaborate neckpieces created out of cast metal exuded the decadence of a Rococo ballroom. Scallop fans, stylised curlicues and trailing bows seemed to cascade from the neckline and add another dimension to the already extravagant layering and trompe l’oeil in the garments. Mary’s overlaid images of luxurious jewels on her asymmetric ruffled garments are reflected in the opulence of the jewellery statement. The jewellery pieces are all created from chandelier components found in Mary’s mother’s furniture factory in Athens. All in all, Mary showcases an opulent extravaganza of 18th century inspiration with a 21st century relevance.
MARIA FRANCESCA PEPE:
Of her collection ‘in the woods’, Maria says: "Its all about the transition between man and animal; a chance for us to explore our wilder part: we all have a dark side to us. There is an irony to this collection, which is why I have called it ‘in the woods’ – a place where light and dark meet. The woods can be a dark place but there are always hints of light and hope. The cross is a symbol of life and death… even teeth, they can be used to terrify but they also show when we smile."
Maria’s symbolism in the cross, animal teeth and the noose-like cross choker; soft diaphanous fabric against hardcore leather corset elements; reveal a collection pungent with irony but also one that reflects her aesthetic. Once again MFPepe enthrals us as she pushes the boundaries of what she terms ‘Jewellery-Wear’.
Giant, multi-faceted crystals, screen-printed on to silk honour the stylised graphic that has become synonymous with Holly Fulton. Her juxtaposition of reflective surfaces and matt opaques not only creates interest but also draws one into the geometric imagery that has its own sense of intrigue as a result of crystal-inspired refractive light and fabric movement. Acid yellow and turquoise add a cool transparency to a collection filled with fashion architecture and snakeskin texture.
Read our full LFW Catwalk report from LFW here.