Editor of Adorn London Juliet Hutton-Squire highlights her favourite collections at London Fashion Week and reveals the jewels we can look forward to adorning our wardrobe with for Autumn/Winter 2011.
|Mawi A/W 2011|
What I love: The men’s range, especially the cuff inspired by a naked stone setting, the serpentine lines of the new ‘Cobra’ collection and the ‘Pretty Tough” story for the femme fatale in this year’s ‘Costume Luxe’ showcase, which is best described in the words of Mawi herself: "This collection is not for the faint-hearted, it’s strong, chic and androgenous."
|Erickson Beamon A/W 2011|
What I love: The resin-encased, gold foil cameos and tattoo prints in the ‘Wild West’ gold digger collection which conjure up rodeo-girl style and the Wild West. Jewelled byzantine cuffs and ostrich plume ‘EB for Maria Grachvogel’ wristwear shout out to me that cuffs, although more embellished, are this season’s ‘next big thing’.
YUNUS & ELIZA
|Yunus & Eliza A/W 2011|
What I love: "…there was flight" references the bird imagery in a luxurious collection of morphed figurines, delicately carved feathers and hawk armour rings. The rich detailing and subtle movement characterised in each piece is a combination of the futuristic and classic elements that underpin a collection that is evocative and playful at the same time.
|Alex Monroe A/W 2011|
What I love: The sumptuously glamorous ‘Chrysanthemum’ collection reminiscent of a bygone era. The nostalgia of the 50s glamour is represented in parure-style jewels with a focus on delicate pearl necklaces, flower-top earrings and statement cocktail rings… a stylish nod to icons such as Grace Kelly.
|Merle O’Grady A/W 2011|
What I love: The new archi-glam ‘Armourama’ collection where signature Perspex tubing and lathed beads are replaced with high shine gold and baguette crystals. Tough luxe meets seventies glam in the A /W 2011 ‘Merle’ camp in the form of big, bold cuffs, dazzling jewelled collars and knuckleduster rings.
ZOE & MORGAN
|Zoe & Morgan A/W 2011|
What I love: The rock ‘n’ roll edge of ‘Tattoo Parlour Etiquette’ with the eagle’s feather, twisted cobra and precious scarab headlining the jewelled stories. This is jewellery that you dare to wear bringing out the wildchild in you. ‘Mischief’ and ‘peace’ scrolled in gold breakaway from the iconic ‘love’ from seasons past.
|Wing Autumn/Winter 2011|
What I love: The soft-edged honeycomb clusters set with pearls tightly attached. Meticulously woven silk thread, stack and layer the hexagon silhouettes throughout Jenny Chan’s collection. The delicate folds of covered pearls veil the beauty that lies within and create a sense of mystery and intrigue.
|Holly Fulton A/W 2011|
What I love: Or rather ‘read my lips’… Holly’s extraordinary exploration of the avant garde and the influences of deco and pop art suggest that her clothes and jewellery become an extension of one another. Her attention to detail and explosive use of Swarovski crystal conjure up a Chanel-esque like nostalgia – no surprise, then, that Madame Coco was her muse du jour.
|MF Pepe Autumn/Winter 2011|
What I love: Eye masks! Maria’s vision and application of a conceptual story mean that her seasonal collections lie at the forefront of cutting-edge jewellery style. Her signature jewellery-wear taken one step further in a masked rendition of Victor Hugo’s quote: ‘Virtue has a veil, vice a mask’.
|Shao Yen A/W 2011|
What I love: The ‘goddess’ inspired collection explores the bare necessities of jewellery-wear, teamed with the soft indulgences of luxury fur and glistening crystals. The cascading casements in old gold form a striking contrast and playful twist on conventional form.
|Joanna Cave A/W 2011|
What I love: The delicate interconnection between the dynamic and fragile world of classical ballet captured in this collection. Delicate cut-outs in a trio of metals skilfully reinforce movement and dance through the interplay of lace-like patterns and their corresponding shadows.
|Bex Rox A/W 2011|
What I love: Bex Rox’s colour pop neons plaited onto gold and silver curb chain, creating an iconic signature style that reflects a rainbow colour palette ready-to-wear .
|Nicholas King Autumn/Winter 2011|
What I love: The sense of glamour captured in this ‘Out of Hollywood’ collection inspired by Nicholas’ muse, who journeys across the globe collecting trinkets and memories along the way. The trinkets and findings capture her journey in a jewelled journal – 2011’s take on the charm bracelet, perhaps?
|Tatty Devine A/W 2011|
What I love: The ‘kooky’ chic and patchwork hexagons intertwined with gold leaf vine leaves, foxes, honesty seeds and…brogues. Tatty’s funfair boutique becomes a ‘Finders Keepers’ forest-inspired Sunday afternoon forage in the woods.
|Fiona Paxton A/W 2011|
What I love: The jewelled armour-like feel of a collection inspired by the ancients dating back to the bronze age, brings out the warrior woman in me. Fiona’s intricate meshing of metal plates, draping chains, chevron leather and beaten metal resonates with mediaeval adornment.
|Michelle Lowe-Holder A/W 2011|
What I love: Ethical and desirable, what’s not to love? Michelle’s eye for detail and passion driven by a ‘zero waste’ philosophy sees charity shop cast-offs given new life in the tactile velvetiness of soft grey, tangerine and cobalt flocking. Bling rings and bangles become textured jewels showing a heart that cares.
|Akong A/W 2011|
What I love: The rich haberdashery of jewel-like tones in a multi-media extravaganza of ‘wow’ statement neckpieces that conjure up the drama and romance of ‘Conquistadora’.
|Fannie Schiavoni A/W 2011|
What I love: The extraordinary colour spectrum created through the top secret recipe of a treated metal and the intricate layered structures of lab-grown crystals. Fannie’s new direction injects colour and organic form into her woven chain jewellery-wear pieces that I have grown to love.
|Cabinet A/W 2011|
What I love: The embellished landscape of crystal collars and elaborate plumage. This treasure trove of haberdashery findings is evocative of an embellished after party, served up with decadent lashings of pleated crystal and intricate braiding.