Bejewelled Treasures: The Al Thani Collection

20/11/15
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Bejewelled_Treasures_Victoria_and_Albert_Museum_London_Adorn-Jewellery-Blog 6 Diamond turban jewel made for the Maharaja of Nawanagar 1907 remodelled in 1935 India. The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited, 2014. Photograph: Prudence Cuming Associates Ltd

 

I spent Wednesday morning at the V&A gazing slack-jawed into glass vitrines at the dazzling objects on show at ‘Bejewelled Treasures: The Al Thani Collection’.

The exhibition – which opens to the public tomorrow – showcases around 100 pieces from or inspired by the jewellery traditions of the Indian subcontinent and is drawn from the private collection of Sheikh Hamad Bin Abdullah Al Thani.

Through a series of rooms designed to resemble the interior of a jewellery box the exhibition takes us on a chronological journey marked by precious stones: diamonds, rubies, jade, and oh – the emeralds!

We see items collected by Mughal Emperors during the 17th century, Indian-inspired pieces made by leading European houses such as Cartier in the early 20th century and contemporary pieces with an Indian theme made by modern masters including JAR and Bhagat of Mumbai.

A room dedicated to kundan and enamel (two fundamental Indian jewellery techniques) is a particular treat, as are highlights such as the gobstopper-sized Golconda diamond given in 1767 to Queen Charlotte by the Nawab of Arcot in South India and a luminous Deco-style brooch designed by Paul Iribe and made by Robert Linzeler in Paris in 1910.

My personal favourite, less for the piece (which is stunning) than for the story that accompanies it, is a peacock brooch and hair ornament bought by Jagatjit Singh of Kapurthala when, on his way to Spain in around 1905, he fell head over heels for 16-year-old dancer Anita Delgado. He whisked Anita off to Paris, where she was transformed by the city’s couturiers and hairdressers and the happy couple tied the knot.

The story gets better. Several years later, now as the Sikh raja’s fifth wife, Anita one day spied a crescent-shaped emerald being worn by one of the royal elephants. Agreeing to learn Urdu in exchange for the gemstone, it was gifted to her on her 19th birthday and she later had it set as a brooch which doubled as a hair ornament, bracelet and necklace.

Both the peacock and the elephant’s gem are on show at the V&A and seeing them, and the other pieces of this wonderful collection, reminded me just why jewellery captures the imagination so powerfully. Sure, it’s beautiful and rare and sometimes priceless, but it’s the stories, the adventures and the mysteries which surround it that give it its enduring sentimental appeal.

 

Bejewelled_Treasures_Victoria_and_Albert_Museum_London_Adorn-Jewellery-Blog Peacock brooch and hair ornament bought by Jagatjit Singh of Kapurthala for Anita Delgado

 

Bejewelled Treasures Victoria and Albert Museum London Adorn Jewellery Blog 4 Brooch, Bhagat, Mumbai 2014
 
Bejewelled_Treasures_Victoria_and_Albert_Museum_London_Adorn-Jewellery-Blog 2 Belt brooch set with emeralds sapphires and diamonds 1922 Cartier Paris France. The Al Thani Collection © Servette Overseas Limited, 2014. Photograph: Prudence Cuming Associates Ltd

 

MA Bejewelled-Treasures-Victoria-and-Albert-Museum-London-Adorn-Jewellery-Blog-5 Brooch designed by Paul Iribe and made by Robert Linzeler, Paris, 1910

 

MA Bejewelled-Treasures-Victoria-and-Albert-Museum-London-Adorn-Jewellery-Blog-3 Bejewelled Treasures Installation, Victoria and Albert Museum, London

 

Bejewelled Treasures: The Al Thani Collection, sponsored by Wartski, from 21 November 2015 – 28 March 2016 at the V&A vam.ac.uk/bejewelledtreasures

 

Words: Maia Adams

One response to “Bejewelled Treasures: The Al Thani Collection”

  1. Masj says:

    This collection of jewellery is stunning, the colours and shapes used in this jewellery collection are beautiful and unique and the peacock is my favourite, I have always loved the jewel colours in the peacock tail and this collectin of jewellery has captured them perfectly

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