Pictures courtesy of Style

JEWELLERY TRENDS AT NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SPRING/SUMMER 2011

Z SPOKE BY ZAC POSEN
 

Zac’s runway debut of his diffusion range was a vibrant expression of quirky kooky-chic where the unexpected becomes coveted and iconic. Who would have thought that the tutti frutti band would swagger down the catwalk with Madame watermelon, adorning the lapels of day coats and itsy bitsy jumpsuits? Posens playful approach to Z Spoke brings an injection of light hearted humour onto the rails of the worlds most notorious department stores and I tell you what, the humble pear might just make its way into the jewellery boxes of the worlds leading fashionistas.

CYNTHIA ROWLEY
 

In starke contast Cynthia Rowley’s rather minimalist presentation had a whimsical feel to it. A far cry from Palm Springs or juicy fruit, Rowley sites Band-Aids as her inspiration for her Spring/Summer catwalk show. Tubular neckwear in sorbet hues seem to merge the clinical elements of a Lab with the playfulness of a jester set against a backdrop of a theatrical runway set gleaned from the New York City Ballet. The punched circles, round buttons and swinging necklaces inject interest and intrigue into her paired down, colour block sihouettes.

BETSEY JOHNSON
 

Oversize graffiti-esque choker chains shouting out ‘Ride Me’ as well as the industrial bicycle chain necklaces reflect Betsey’s new found obsession – cyclists. 50s Dolly Rocker meets bicycle courrier results in raw-edged urban expression further enhanced by acid bodysuits and stripey hold-ups. The ambiguity of this collection was suggested in the detail – the choker necklace and stripper heels but ultimately Johnson’s statement is all about a new rebellion that destabilises the pretty cut-outs and Ming prints seen elsewere on the catwalk.

MARC BY MARC JACOBS
 

Following on from his mainline show, 70s silhouettes still rule for Marc but this time with a far more sporty, girl-next-door approach. Stripes in canary yellow, sky blue and tangerine are echoed in the bangle stack wristwear statements. Not only do we see that minimalist jewels are where it is at for Jacobs but that colour plastic and acrylics are back too. The collection is accessible and attainable in a classic, sporty kind of way.

DEREK LAM

The jewellery adorning Derek Lam’s California girls sees urban minimalism at its purist symbollised by the geometry of a single shape suspened from a choker chain or the conical cuff. This is an expression of pure form – no stacking or layering. There is something uncomplicated and rather literal  about Lam’s new collection echoed in the statement wrist and neckwear adorning the relaxed silhouettes of his clothes inspired by the beach-lifestyle of his home town.