All images courtesy of Style.com

JEWELLERY TRENDS ON THE MILAN CATWALK SPRING/SUMMER 2011
 

GIORGIO ARMANI

Armani’s ‘Blue Period’ or ‘La Femme Bleue’ is a nod to the Tauregs and the Saharan night sky. Head wraps and tribal jewellery in hues of blue reflected the navy shading seen in the clothes with subtle nuances in colour and texture. The most edgy of the jewels were the concentric circles seen in neckwear and earrings – wire wrapping an orbit around the stone just like the satelittes of tuile encircled the body of the catwalk model. Layering and stacking and the glittering scorpion brooch – a nod to the nomadic tribe.

BOTTEGA VENETA

There was an understated elegance about Tomas Maier’s new collection, with the models appearing on the runway with damp, tossled hair oozing effortless style associated with the skill of a collection that resonates summer cool. The monochrome cameos engraved in all in one pieces added to the purity and sophistication of the collection.

ROBERTO CAVALLI

A cascade of fringe sums up Cavalli’s catwalk show, no stranger to the bare necessities and celebrating forty years in the business, saw him taking the whip-stitching, lacing and patchworking to new heights. Cavalli adorned his models with layered, plaited and twisted leather criss-crossed with sequins, crystal and beads which for me conjured up a story of Tarzan and Jane against the backdrop of giganticised jungle vegetation.

DOLCE & GABBANA

For anyone getting married in Spring/Summer 2011, Dolce & Gabbana’s white washed runway inspired by a brides trousseau, would surely be your point of reference. The soft romance of the broderie anglaise and crochet-finished dress was further reinforced by the backdrop of images of Sicillian crafters hand-stitching lace. The pure white collection was given a new twist with big hoop earrings and a memoire choker necklace adorning the whimsical silhoutte of monochrome elegance and is reminiscent of something old and something new, something borrowed and something blue.

GUCCI

Colour blocking in  glamorous jewel tones and berber accents meant that Gucci was mostly about colour. However, Frida Giannini explored the sultry side of black with fringing, plaiting and tassels making their presence felt in the form of statement neckwear and golden cuffs. We do predict a riot of colour coming through in jewels for Spring/Summer 2011, one can’t ignore the rich colour palette of orange, teal and purple at the top of the show.

MARNI

The aerodynamic style athlete hit the runway at Marni in scuba-cute shapes and leather swimming caps. The perforated leather coats were an abstraction of athletic mesh whose geometry was seen in the paired down style statement in the form of Marni jewels. Pendulums of coloured acrylic could be seen as Cataglioni’s take on the pom-pom or the emergence of the new geometry we saw on the runways of New York.

EMILIO PUCCI

"Bohemian beachcomber done luxe" is how Peter Dundas described this collection which had a strong 70s/Mediterranean luxe undertone. Mirrors and sequins sit alongside ruffles and flounces which reflect something of India but perhaps the crucifix suspended from a long chain is homage to the stone churches on Dundas’ dream Mediterranean island somewhat closer to home.