Erickson Beamon Rock the Runway by Gemma Douglass
No strangers to sending show-stopping jewels down the catwalk, Erickson Beamon continue to collaborate with leading designers each season during the London and New York Fashion Weeks, whilst showcasing an array of remarkable mainline collections of their own. With their thirtieth anniversary approaching, Erickson Beamon boast an impressive list of catwalk collaborations, beginning in the eighties and early nineties as one of the lone costume jewellery makers in the industry working with the likes of John Galliano, Givenchy, Ungaro and Roberto Cavalli. Today Erickson Beamon still work with a plethora of esteemed designers and are keen to collaborate with the hottest young talent of the moment.
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This season their presence was strong on both sides of the pond starting with their sensational presentation at Milk Studios in New York on 13th February. Pretty in pink ballerinas from the Russian American Foundation’s Bolshoi Ballet Academy United States Youth Program were adorned with crystallised eye masks and headpieces exquisitely marrying drama and beauty. Shimmering Swarovski crystals were set in oxy-plated metal skeletons that framed the eyes in arresting patterns and shapes. Choreographed by Stephen Petronio, who placed the girls on scaffolding platforms that evoked Irving Penn’s magisterial 1947 Ballet Theater photograph, the presentation included masks already admired and worn by Lady Gaga, as well as a necklace designed in homage to Alexander McQueen.
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The rest of New York Fashion Week saw divine Erickson Beamon pearl necklaces at Donna Karan perfectly complementing the neutral palette of the collection and endorsing the ‘limousine lifestyle’ look that the designer intended. The long-standing superb catwalk partnership between Erickson Beamon and Anna Sui saw seventies folk-style long necklaces with chunky link chain and spherical beaded pendants showing that the hippy ‘Woodstock-esque’ trend will last through to winter, but take on a harder luxury feel.
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| Donna Karan A/W 2011 | Anna Sui A/W 2011 | Donna Karan A/W 2011 |
At London Fashion Week, Erickson Beamon presented an ever-beautiful and unforgettable set of collections as part of the exhibition at Somerset House, whilst also appearing on the catwalks of Erdem, Caroline Charles and Maria Grachvogel.
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| Erdem A/W 2011 | Maria Grachvogel A/W 2011 | Caroline Charles A/W 2011 |
Vicki Beamon described Maria Grachvogel’s show as a ‘dark fairytale’ and the feathered oversized cuffs worn on both wrists, with large rectangular slabs of black and white Lucite, fulfilled this vision and punctuated Grachvogel’s palette of smoky greys and olive greens. The jewellery, also recalling a 1950s African safari look (think Ava Gardner and Grace Kelly in the 1953 classic film ‘Mogambo’), was clean and simple but packed a punch with necklaces comprising dark silver chunky chain with geometric Lucite stones in khaki, cream and grey. Shoulder-dusting earrings with long shards radiated elegance with a spectacular and slick edge.
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| Close-up of the Maria Grachvogel pieces worn on the catwalk |
This dexterous illusion of luxury with a rock ‘n’ roll side is a skill which Erickson Beamon masterfully employ each season and it was ever present in the earrings designed specially for the Erdem show. Erdem’s rich, hypnotic, smouldering paint blotch prints on velvet layered with lace were accompanied by dark oxy-plated drop earrings with clear and grey crystal. Mirroring the patterns in the lace, the clusters of Swarovski crystal suspended sparkling against the faces of the models evoked the dark luxury of the clothes.
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| Erdem A/W 2011 |
With the skill of perfectly accessorising any look and understanding just how to finish an outfit off without sullying it, it is no wonder that Erickson Beamon are in demand for creating outstanding show jewels.
Images courtesy of Erickson Beamon
