Walking the halls of the exhibition is like entering a jewelled wonderland. I am delighted to bring you the highlights of what I saw.

MAWI:

I asked Mawi about the inspiration behind her new heirloom collection, ‘Punk Nouveau’ and this is what she had to say: "I love this collection. Skulls have been part of Mawi since the very beginning in fact and we used to have a skull in our logo. The collection has a 70s glam edge, it’s rock ‘n’ roll with a nouveau twist. This collection is less architectural and more feminine." Mawi have two new collections in their Fine Costume range – ‘Punk Royale’ and ‘Deco Noir’. I can’t wait to bring you more of one of my favourite designers.

ERICKSON BEAMON:

The new ‘Tropical Punch’ collection from Erickson Beamon is a heady melange of exotic colours and flamboyant designs. ‘Mad Hatter’ meets Carmen Miranda – the 1950s samba diva, well know for her tutti-frutti hats and sensuous costumes, inspired this dazzling collection. Brazilain Bombshell or not, these jewels are dripping with mouth-watering shimmy and sparkle. Erickson Beamon’s creative genius showcases other collections such as ‘Conquistador’ and ‘Atlantis’ which conjure up images of Latin American treasure and Neptunesque verdigris metal, set with Pacific opal and mint alabaster.
 

 
FANNIE SCHIAVONI:

Fannie Schiavoni’s signature chains suspended from the high ceiling made me feel like I had taken the ‘drink me’ potion on the set of ‘Alice in Wonderland’ and I was transported into Fannie’s world. The monochromatic hues and industrial elements pay homage to her Scandinavian heritage. The soft grey of the lamb’s wool from Gotland creates a womb-like narrative of a rural homestead; on the surface, a direct antithesis to  the urban austerity of her iconic reams of  knitted steel and armour pieces. Schiavoni sensitively merges the two worlds, seamlessly creating a new aesthetic that inspires and excites.
 

 FIONA PAXTON:

‘Four-sided constellation’ is the title of Fiona’s new collection. This season is about a new geometry, inspired by satellites tracing planets through space; black holes; and futuristic utopias of modern living. Whilst remaining true to her signature chain fringing and looping, Paxton explores multi dimensions by wrapping flat sheets of beading around exaggerated metal shapes. Each piece merges the ancient art of beading with modern design. "I wanted this collection to look less tribal and more modern, more space age, really." I was blown away by the hand-crafted metallic universe of glistening beadwork.

ALEX MONROE:

‘The Peacock and the Crow’, a collection based on a folk story about how the birds got their colours. Originally Peacock and Crow both had plain white feathers, but, moved by a field of flowers, Crow painstakingly painted Peacock in a beautiful palette. When it was Peacock’s turn, he didn’t want to waste any time in showing off his new plumes, so promptly, and rather spitefully, poured a pot of black ink over Crow.  Taking his inspiration from this tale, Monroe creates two collections: one bold and flamboyant and the other dark and mysterious.
 

DAVID LONGSHAW AND KIRSTY WARD:

 It was no surprise that this collaboration was selected by the Vauxhall Fashion Scout in their ‘ones to watch’ catwalk show. Both Central St Martin’s graduates with an employment history that includes Max Mara and Alberta Ferretti, David and Lucy are an exciting duo. ‘Escaping Emily’ is the title of Longshaw’s latest collection and is based on the curious tale of an abandoned puppet, who, after being re-discovered by a disturbed Emily, has to reclothe herself in a patchwork of ‘armour’, created from the clock parts and pressed flowers she finds stacked up around her. The screen printed images of watch parts set against a striking cobalt background are reflected in the industrial sophistication of Kirsty’s jewels.

MICHELLE LOWE-HOLDER:

I was delighted to meet Michelle and was instantly drawn to her mannequin display at Estethica, LFW. ‘Ribbon Reclaim’ is about creating something beautiful from end-of-line fabric and ribbon. This is what she said about her new collection: "I like to explore old techniques and re-use them in a contemporary way." Essentially, Lowe-Holder creates clothing; but her attention to detail seen in the ribbon smocking and newspaper sequins, for example, made me look twice.

ZOE AND MORGAN:

‘Yes’ and the raccoon…Walking into the Zoe and Morgan exhibition space was like walking into an uber-chic sitting room of one of the pair. Family photgraphs, swallows, skulls and personal notes lined the walls and mantlepiece. The approachable ethos of the brand suggests that  Zoe and Morgan live the brand and want us to engage with them in it. Their collection often reflects something of their love for travel and can be inspired by a handful of precious stones picked up in Bali or a notelet from a friend. The ribbon writing on a letter to Zoe inspired the new ‘Yes’ ring. 2010 is all about affirmation and the ‘Yes’ collection is symbolic of that.

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