Something Old, Something New
With London Jewellery Week in full swing last week – and all eyes on the capital for the latest on all that glitters – one emergent trend was notable for taking a nostalgic backward glance. As espoused by a handful of influential jewellers with otherwise disparate aesthetics, the vogue for re-worked vintage – fusion pieces that incorporate authentic heritage elements into contemporary pieces – is seeing a host of novel interpretations enter the jewellery arena.
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| Charms Annina Vogel |
Charm necklace Annina Vogel |
Over at Liberty Annina Vogel – who specialises in making one-off pieces that include antique British gold charms – enjoyed a week-long residency, during which customers were invited to pick-and-mix trinkets sourced from jewellery fairs and antiques markets, which Vogel then fashioned into bespoke creations according to her client’s brief.
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| Orbit necklace Merle O’Grady |
Bombshell necklace Merle O’ Grady |
Cordwainers-trained jeweller Merle O’Grady (who counts Cheryl Cole and Beyoncé as fans) is similarly in thrall to pieces with a back story. “Right now I’m drawn to the 60s and 70s, so using elements from those periods adds a bit of original styling to my otherwise modern pieces", says O’Grady who combines her signature punched, laser-cut Perspex shapes and semi-precious stones with chunky vintage chains bought in original factory packs from the US. “I love the juxtaposition of old and new, and the chains – which often have unusual textures and patterns, or are made from mixed metals – add to the overall visual impact.”
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| Flutter, NYC Jill Golden |
Unearthen Gia Bahm |
It’s a sentiment echoed by Jill Golden of Flutter NYC, who uses coloured stones that date back to 1920s West Germany in collections inspired by her globetrotting lifestyle; and Gia Bahm at Unearthen, whose crystal-mounted vintage watches are both ghostly and compelling. Although secretive as to the provenance of her timepieces, Golden is clear about why she uses them: “Each watch has its own unique characteristics, as do the crystals. Combining those two elements results in pieces that are truly one-of-a-kind.”
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| ABToklas Belmacz |
Seneca Belmacz |
Roman coins, buttons once worn by the Russian Czar’s guard, and an ivory child’s bangle are the eclectic jumping off points for Julia Muggenburg’s fertile imagination. In addition to the vibrant collections she creates for her luxury brand, Belmacz, Muggenburg accepts commissions from clients who approach her with jewellery items that hold sentimental value, but which are dated and unwearable in their current form. Asked to explain the enthusiasm for jewels that combine both old and new elements Muggenburg suggests: “Something old has a defined, special quality and is therefore perfect within the context of a new jewel. Finding new ways to interpret a piece’s story is part of the challenge, but it means that someone will come to treasure it for another lifetime.”
A glance at Vogel’s website offers up another possibility for the increase in popularity of re-worked jewellery. Charms grouped by themes – Love & Luck, Travels, and Childhood Memories – tap into an appetite for nostalgia, adventure and wishful thinking that often prevails in uncertain times. Combine those dreams with a desire to get ahead in the style stakes and re-worked vintage might just be the best way forward.
Maia Adams
www.thebibelotphile.blogspot.com
Image of Maia by Jane Melton.
