The red carpets have been rolled and stored, the champagne glasses restacked, the lids put on the lipstick, shoes back in their boxes, clothes pinned on mannequins, models sent to the spa and designers on a weekend break. This marks the end of four weeks of Spring/Summer 2011 and what an inspiring season it has been. We have marvelled at the jewellery on the catwalk, from metal carapaces to big stone chandeliers, from tutti-fruiti brooches to geometric statement neckpieces and elbow-high bangle stacks. At Adorn London, we are privileged to have contributors who have soaked up the atmosphere in the fashion capitals New York, Paris, Milan and London. I set them an almost impossible task: to select their favourite piece of catwalk jewellery from a particular city to cap our BIG Fashion Issue. Without further ado, here are their Spring/Summer 2011 jewellery favourites:
MAIA ADAMS: PARIS
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ALL ABOUT YVES
I have to admit to a serious weakness for Yves Saint Laurent. From the life story of Yves himself – so remarkable you couldn’t make it up – to the brand’s many iconoclastic milestones, to the clothes themselves: the last word in elegance with a twist.
So perhaps I’m biased in my hankering for this piece, but if there’s one bit of jewellery going on my summer wardrobe wishlist next year, this is it.
To my mind, this necklace embodies something of the spirit of the house whose influences have been felt across so many of the S/S2011 catwalks. Unsurprising, perhaps, given the phenomenal success of the recently ended YSL retrospective at Paris’ Petit Palais.
This necklace is at once on trend (the warrior look is bubbling under for S/S 2011) and timeless, ultra-chic and satisfyingly left field. The proportions are perfect – just outsized enough to lift it from comfort zone to cool club. There is something of the 60s in its off-kilter discs; a hint of ancient treasure in those matte, textured metal surfaces. The rippled silhouette of the vertical slices echoes the ruffles that snake across the collection’s more frivolous garments.
According to style.com, YSL’s creative director, Stefano Pilati, talked after the show of his interest in tribalism, and how ‘fashion is a way for women to identify themselves, just as members of a tribe do’. If this beauty’s anything to go by, that’s one tribe I’d very much like to join.
ELISA SETTIMI: NEW YORK
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FROM THE OSCARS TO OSCAR
Ever since Angelina Jolie wore the 115-carat emerald drop earrings and the 65-carat emerald ring by Lorraine Schwartz to the Oscars last year, I’ve noticed the demand for green baubles has risen. Oscar de la Renta fed this demand and really outdid himself with these awe-inspiring jewels from his Spring 2011 collection. Since I’m a red head, I’m a bit partial to the color green, but I think these pieces could work for almost any complexion. I love how they are able to make a statement without any gratuitous bling. The floral motif and tonal range of colors bring an organic feel to the pieces and yet their sheer scale adds an over-the-top quality that would be worthy of any red carpet. It’s the ultimate adornment for warm weather days and can be easily used to add a bit of glamour and drama to any night’s ensemble. I don’t know about you, but I’m going to have a hard time waiting until next spring to get my hands on these pieces!
KATHRYN BISHOP: MILAN
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| Moschino Spring/Summer 2011 |
MOSCHINO’S FLEUR
From gingham frocks to mirrored shades and cowbow hats, Moschino’s S/S 2011 Milan runway was a burst of Americana with a playful twist. Tough on the outside with softened edges, the models clashed with texture and patterns, topped off with chunky gold jewellery evocative of 80s downtown NYC. The tassled stacking bangles must have clattered with the swing of each arm, while gold chains and polka dot headscarves gave a hint of Desperately Seeking Susan.
The refined ostentation of Moschino has long been inimitable, and when it came to the jewellery, the fleur de lys earrings were my firm favourites. A classic symbol of affluence and luxury given a tongue-in-cheek makeover; oversized, polished gold and teamed with a peach pout, they’re a perfect example of so-wrong-yet-so-right.
GEMMA DOUGLASS: LONDON
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| Richard Nicoll Spring/Summer 2011 |
DECO NICOLL
With a nod to 1940s art deco and well-executed vintage style clusters, Erickson Beamon adorned Richard Nicoll’s collection of sleek sporty sophistication. The perfect way to accessorise minimalism in fashion by adding a dramatic touch of sparkle! Achieved by a new earring shape that sat sculpted to the silhouette of the ear and dazzling jet, cream and clear Swarovski crystal belt buckles with a slight hint of seventies glam to endorse Nicoll’s hint at a ‘bowie-esque’ trouser suited aesthetic.
All images courtesy of Style.com
